'THE BEST BURGER IN LONDON' REVIEW BY MAX FRASER

I am a big fan of burgers. There are so many variables in what constitutes this convenient, substantial, reassuring, luxuriant “sandwich”.  To define a burger as a sandwich may provoke some debate, however, a burger is certainly best enjoyed by my reckoning between two bits of bread and it was a meal born out of convenience. 
Two principles that for me best set up the definition of a sandwich – agreed?

Burgers differ hugely in composition, size, presentation, price, texture, taste, extras and above all personal preferences. However, the closest I have come to experiencing burger perfection is when I employ my own two hands and use a bunch of napkins to mop up the juicy drippings from a succulent patty, that is ordinarily accompanied by just a couple of extras, including melted cheese of one description or another & streaky bacon.

I came across a similarly greedy food lover, called Dan Young, who has won much acclaim for his culinary reviews and assessments under the title of “Young & Foodish”. Tipping a cap his way, I recommend you read his Top Ten assessment of Burgers across town - http://youngandfoodish.com/london/top-10-burgers-in-london/... It is an All-Star cast and his reviews will render you hungry, keen and raring to get out there and try some of these contenders for the title of “Best Burger in Town”. His reviews inspired me to continue in my pursuit of burger perfection. In an imperfect life, I do not believe I will ever find what can be described literally as perfect, but on my tour of London, I have been subjected to some exceptional moments & mouthfuls of burger-induced delight.

One of my favourite places, that I was initially tipped-off about, tried and now frequent, is Joe Allens, on Exeter Street, in Covent Garden. It is hard to imagine that there is a quiet street in Covent Garden, as it is the epicenter of London’s entertainment district. However, once on Exeter street, you will notice that there is very little else to distract one’s eye except a dark-green awning jutting out of the wall, at head-height. This will guide you in to Joe Allens, where the stairs then lead you down to the lower-ground floor, where the restaurant opens up. The dim lights, the bare-brick walls, dark wooden veneers, all paired with a plentiful amount of black & white photos and US paraphernalia on the walls, make for an authentic atmosphere, akin to a speakeasy joint from the days of prohibition in Chicago. 


So far we’ve got the scene set with authentic Americana and what dish would be more appropriately served than the USA’s contribution to world cuisine…the Burger! The menu arrives and you’ll be pleased you’ve read about the burger, as Joe Allen chooses NOT to list this particular food item on their menu. This only adds further to the excitement of what is to come. At £8.50 without chips, this burger represents fantastic value on the merit of the enjoyment it imparts. The patty is served as you would like it cooked, but in my case medium rare is never wrong, thus rendering the middle of the patty pink. The burger is built between two pieces of brioche, and accompanied by both generous amounts of oozing cheese & two strips of streaky bacon. 

There is also a thick slice of onion inside, which I personally choose to remove, thus not to overpower the genuinely brilliant flavour of the meat, which is buffeted by the aromas from being char grilled. When first confronted by the Joe Allens burger, one’s appetite might lead them to doubt that there is enough on the plate to fill them up. Maybe  you could have two! Afterall, they seem so compact and manageable. However, on reflection one turns out to be enough, especially when accompanied with the house fries. The burgers are very well built, not too big & thus easy to handle. They are paired only with the bare necessities of cheese & bacon. The patty is of a rotund dimension and is very juicy. My taste buds are not forensic enough to detail what cuts of meat and their quantities are that comprise the patty itself, but there is enough fat content to keep the burger juicy even if well-done, and the patty is packed together without being too firm.

I love authenticity and am totally sold on the experience of Joe Allen. Having eaten as many burgers as I could while living in New York, I like Joe Allen for replicating the most authentic version of what is best about a burger in the US of A itself. It is uncomplicated, the flavour of the meat shines through, you can eat it in your hands, and the bun brings it all together.

Score Board

First date                  7/10

Quality of food             9/10

Value for money             9/10 

Comfort and atmosphere      7/10

Authenticity                9/10

Service                     8/10